Georgia Brought Me To My Knees
I just got home from Tiblisi, Georgia where I was observing an ABA CEELI training on domestic violence for law enforcement and advocates in Georgia. Actually, I got home from Georgia about 7 hours ago - but I JUST got home from a night out with L and the commandos. L and I had dinner together around 9:30 and then joined the commandos at a local pub, enjoying the hilarious cover band until we moved on to a nightclub where we danced for hours. It was actually nice to go dancing, it had been awhile.
But here are the things that are important to mention about Georgia. Firstly, I benefited from the amazing generosity and kindness of an American couple there, who treated me with such hospitality and showed me the entire city. The next thing that has to be mentioned is the food, the incredible, rich and decadent food. Its really all about the cheese. Cheese pie, cheese filled dumplings, the bread, - it was basically a vegetarian's dream with all the options. We ate Georgian food every night and it was delicious! Another critical thing to mention about Georgia is that most of the country is Orthodox Christian, and so there are millions of churches everywhere. At all hours of the day- as they are on their way somewhere- the Georgians will stop and cross themselves (or do the holy trinity if I've got that right) three times and/or bow..sometimes staying a moment to pray right there on the street in front of the church.
Another fun thing to mention about Georgia (but its true also in Azerbaijan) is that frequently the water comes out of the spouts in serious explosive spurts. It's quite startling actually when you turn on the faucet. In Tiblisi, the water was shut off in the middle of the night. An important distinction between Baku and Tiblisi - Tiblisi is a dog city (with street dogs aplenty) and Baku is more the stray cat capital.
I would be remiss if I did not point out the fun of traveling to Tiblisi from Baku - particularly the multiple security checkpoints at the Baku airport. One full metal detector and baggage x-ray machine at the airport door, one to get to the ticketing and check in area, and then a third at the gate. In addition to this 3 time xray and metal detector, there is a VERY THOROUGH pat-down by a female officer. Lets just say that its just shy of a cavity search and there is extra emphasis on the bra and breast area to make sure our underwire is all we have in there.
But once in Tiblisi there are fresh flowers everywhere for sale. There are bundles and bundles of large calla lillies - it reminded me of my wedding! The substance of the conference was great, but not necessarily the stuff for blogs. However, the scene was impressive and if you've seen the Nicole Kidman movie "the Interpreter" then you pretty much have an idea of what it was like. Thirty people in a room around a U shaped table, an interpreter booth with two interpreters in it and everyone wearing headsets so their language would be heard despite what the speaker's native tongue was. When someone asked a question in Georgian, I heard it through my headphones in English in the lovely interpreter's voice.
As I was about to leave the city, having had an amazing time thanks to my wonderful hosts, I arrived at the airport courtesy of the office driver. And I got out of the car, loaded up my arms with my bags, and with the stuff, my hair, my scarf, and my natural grace - I had what can only be described as a MONUMENTAL WIPE OUT. I had taken not even two steps, and clearly hadn't seen the 3 inch step right in front of me and so I flew forward and down I went! Bags flying. Coat flying. Hair flying. SMASH. On both my knees. I basically sort of stayed there in shock, on my stomach in front of the Tiblisi airport and a ton of people. It was a major spectacle and I am sure I provided people with material to talk about for the rest of the day. The driver and a nearby Georgian man helped bring me to my feet again and I hurried into the airport in shame. Once I made it through all the security checks and had my requisite pat down/feel up by the officer there I checked out my knees in the bathroom and sure enough, skinned and bruised like a little kid. Both of them, my poor sad knees.
But here are the things that are important to mention about Georgia. Firstly, I benefited from the amazing generosity and kindness of an American couple there, who treated me with such hospitality and showed me the entire city. The next thing that has to be mentioned is the food, the incredible, rich and decadent food. Its really all about the cheese. Cheese pie, cheese filled dumplings, the bread, - it was basically a vegetarian's dream with all the options. We ate Georgian food every night and it was delicious! Another critical thing to mention about Georgia is that most of the country is Orthodox Christian, and so there are millions of churches everywhere. At all hours of the day- as they are on their way somewhere- the Georgians will stop and cross themselves (or do the holy trinity if I've got that right) three times and/or bow..sometimes staying a moment to pray right there on the street in front of the church.
Another fun thing to mention about Georgia (but its true also in Azerbaijan) is that frequently the water comes out of the spouts in serious explosive spurts. It's quite startling actually when you turn on the faucet. In Tiblisi, the water was shut off in the middle of the night. An important distinction between Baku and Tiblisi - Tiblisi is a dog city (with street dogs aplenty) and Baku is more the stray cat capital.
I would be remiss if I did not point out the fun of traveling to Tiblisi from Baku - particularly the multiple security checkpoints at the Baku airport. One full metal detector and baggage x-ray machine at the airport door, one to get to the ticketing and check in area, and then a third at the gate. In addition to this 3 time xray and metal detector, there is a VERY THOROUGH pat-down by a female officer. Lets just say that its just shy of a cavity search and there is extra emphasis on the bra and breast area to make sure our underwire is all we have in there.
But once in Tiblisi there are fresh flowers everywhere for sale. There are bundles and bundles of large calla lillies - it reminded me of my wedding! The substance of the conference was great, but not necessarily the stuff for blogs. However, the scene was impressive and if you've seen the Nicole Kidman movie "the Interpreter" then you pretty much have an idea of what it was like. Thirty people in a room around a U shaped table, an interpreter booth with two interpreters in it and everyone wearing headsets so their language would be heard despite what the speaker's native tongue was. When someone asked a question in Georgian, I heard it through my headphones in English in the lovely interpreter's voice.
As I was about to leave the city, having had an amazing time thanks to my wonderful hosts, I arrived at the airport courtesy of the office driver. And I got out of the car, loaded up my arms with my bags, and with the stuff, my hair, my scarf, and my natural grace - I had what can only be described as a MONUMENTAL WIPE OUT. I had taken not even two steps, and clearly hadn't seen the 3 inch step right in front of me and so I flew forward and down I went! Bags flying. Coat flying. Hair flying. SMASH. On both my knees. I basically sort of stayed there in shock, on my stomach in front of the Tiblisi airport and a ton of people. It was a major spectacle and I am sure I provided people with material to talk about for the rest of the day. The driver and a nearby Georgian man helped bring me to my feet again and I hurried into the airport in shame. Once I made it through all the security checks and had my requisite pat down/feel up by the officer there I checked out my knees in the bathroom and sure enough, skinned and bruised like a little kid. Both of them, my poor sad knees.
posted by K. at 6:36 PM
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